Reverso belay device

Reverso is versatile belay device made by French company Petzl. This page describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called Reverso 1. Later was added Reverso 2, which is Reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different Reverso 3 and after that lightweight Reverso 4.

Reverso 1

Reverso 1

However, the basic operating procedures are the same. Here we will discuss them on an example of the first type of this belay device Reverso1. With original Reverso 1 is possible to belay using single rope and twin rope. It is possible to belay leader (dynamic) and seconding climber (both dynamic and static with self-blocking of the rope). Of course it is possible to use the Reverso 1 also for rappelling and even to climb up the rope. The principle of Reverso1 is based on Sticht plate, the origin cannot be denied, but it has, thanks to the second eye hole for carabiner clipping, the same way of use as a belay plate (Gi-gi), that means autoblocking of the rope while belaying the second. Therefore it can be aptly said that Reverso 1 is Sticht plate and Gi-gi put into one. For the device to function is necessary to have one locking carabiner (you can use: HMS, oval “O” carabiner, bigger “B” carabiner and also can be used klettersteig carabiner “K”). In addition, for autoblocking belay mode is needed one more carabiner, the best would be HMS locking carabiner.

If we want to use Reverso1 for dynamic belay of leader or a second climber, we insert the rope the same way as into a Sticht plate (both single rope and double rope). By bending of the rope we create a bight and the bight is put through the opening. Then the carabiner (we recommend HMS carabiner) clips both the protruding rope bight and bigger metal eye hole (retainer) of Reverso. In addition, there are two ways to set Reverso1. One way is for lower braking force, the second is to achieve greater braking force, e.g. when using a smaller diameter ropes, such as twins and half ropes.

Reverso 1 in a mode of smaller braking effect. Use for dynamic “from the harness” belay or to rappel.

Reverso 1 in a mode of smaller braking effect. Use for dynamic “from the harness” belay or to rappel.

Reverso 3 and 4

In following years belay device Reverso 1 undergone some innovations. Instead of construction made of sheet metal parts the body of belay device received the look of compact metal stamping, which is by default fitted with tapered notches for the rope, and with a smaller second eye hole for attaching the carabiner used to facilitate the release of the rope when lowering the second.

Reverso 3

Reverso 3

Reverso 4

Reverso 4

More in e-book.

Title Part 2Mountaineering Methodology – Part 2 – Gear and Accessories

ISBN 978-80-87715-08-6

MMPublishing, 2013

Available for download from Apple iTunes (in the Books section).

For example U.S. store – link

Another countries – look on the page Download

See layout.

Another possibility is Google Play. This version is a simplified (as PDF).

Title Part 2 GPMountaineering Methodology – Part 2 – Gear and Accessories

ISBN 978-80-87715-13-0

MMPublishing, 2014

Available for download from Google Play.