Reverso belay device

Reverso is versatile belay device made by French company Petzl. This paragraph describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called Reverso 1. Later was added Reverso 2, which is Reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different Reverso 3 and after that lightweight Reverso 4. However, the basic operating procedures are the same. Here we will discuss them on an example of the first type of this belay device, Reverso 1.

Reverso 1

With original Reverso 1 is possible to belay using single rope and twin rope. It is possible to belay leader (dynamic) and seconding climber (both dynamic and static with self-blocking of the rope). Of course it is possible to use the Reverso 1 also for rappelling and even to climb up the rope. The principle of Reverso1 is based on Sticht plate, the origin cannot be denied, but it has, thanks to the second eye hole for carabiner clipping, the same way of use as a belay plate (Gi-gi), that means autoblocking of the rope while belaying the second. Therefore it can be aptly said that Reverso 1 is Sticht plate and Gi-gi put into one. For the device to function is necessary to have one locking carabiner (you can use: HMS, oval “O” carabiner, bigger “D” carabiner and also can be used klettersteig carabiner “K”). In addition, for autoblocking belay mode is needed one more carabiner, the best would be HMS locking carabiner.

Reverso 1 in a mode of smaller braking effect. Use for dynamic “from the harness” belay or to rappel.
Reverso 3
Reverso 4

Continued in the book >>

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