Protection using hexentrics

Another type of eccentric camming chock is the hexentric, informally called the “hex”. It can be placed crosswise into a rock crack like a classic chock; of course, most frequently using the shape of the hex, which is an irregular six-sided cuboid shape. Thanks to this irregular shape the hex can be inserted even into an almost parallel crack. The crack must, however, “fit to the body”. In order for the hex to jam properly into a parallel crack it is good for the runner in the hex to be made out of synthetic fibre. The metal wire sometimes used rather ruins the chocking ability of the hex. The hex is currently fading from the scene nowadays and is being replaced by the popular spring-loaded camming devices. A sling threaded through a hex must be joined with certain bend knots. It is good to have this knot located approx. 10 cm from the loop of the sling at the end where the carabiner is clipped. The reason is that it is necessary to consider the fact that you will place the body of the hex deep into the rock crack, which can grow more narrow under the nest of placement, and the sling leads out through this very narrowing of the crack. A bend knot placed too close to the hex might not fit through and would block it.

A hex placed like a classic chock.

A hex placed like a classic chock.

A hex placed in a camming style.

A hex placed in a camming style.

More in e-book.

Title Part 3Mountaineering Methodology – Part 3 – Belaying and Rappelling

ISBN 978-80-87715-09-3

MMPublishing, 2013

Available for download from Apple iTunes (in the Books section).

For example U.S. store – link

Another countries – look on the page Download

See layout.

Another possibility is Google Play. This version is a simplified (as PDF).

Title Part 3 GPMountaineering Methodology – Part 3 – Belaying and Rappelling

ISBN 978-80-87715-14-7

MMPublishing, 2014

Available for download from Google Play.