Locking the rope off while belaying

Without question, the primary activity of the belayer is to hold the rope and regulate its movement in the belay device. Except that there are situations where circumstances present you with the necessity for other activities, and suddenly it isn’t that simple to get everything done, when at least one hand must continue to hold the rope while belaying. And it is here that the need to know how to lock off the rope in the belay device becomes a necessity. It is critical to be adept at this and every even somewhat advanced mountaineer must have it mastered. Locking off the rope in a belay device causes its blo belay device is disabled. This enables the belayer to let go of the rope with both hands. This has great significance particularly in the situation after a leader falls, and perhaps becomes injured. By blocking the rope in the belay device the belayer eliminates the requirement that he hold the rope, and can now devote all his attention to rescuing, preparing first aid materials, pulling a first aid kit out of his backpack, and after blocking the rope can even ascend or descend to the injured fellow climber. Locking off the rope, however, can also be used rather well in situations when the climber has merely sat into the rope, and needs to rest somewhat longer in a hang on the rope. Rather than having the belayer hold her the entire time and thereby become tired himself, he can lock off the rope and then he will not need to hold it in his hand. This will be particularly valued by the belayer in winter, when his hands are numb and holding the rope for a long time would truly be torturous.

Locking off a rope with direct protection at the belay station, here using the UIAA belay method with a Munter hitch on an HMS carabiner. The second knot has been tied as a backup against undesired unravelling.

Locking off a rope with direct protection at the belay station, here using the UIAA belay method with a Munter hitch on an HMS carabiner. The second knot has been tied as a backup against undesired unravelling.

Locking off a rope when belaying with a Munter hitch from the harness.

Locking off a rope when belaying with a Munter hitch from the harness.

More in e-book.

Title Part 3Mountaineering Methodology – Part 3 – Belaying and Rappelling

ISBN 978-80-87715-09-3

MMPublishing, 2013

Available for download from Apple iTunes (in the Books section).

For example U.S. store – link

Another countries – look on the page Download

See layout.

Another possibility is Google Play. This version is a simplified (as PDF).

Title Part 3 GPMountaineering Methodology – Part 3 – Belaying and Rappelling

ISBN 978-80-87715-14-7

MMPublishing, 2014

Available for download from Google Play.