Free climbing

The idea behind free climbing is a pure connection between human movement and unchanging terrain. In free climbing only natural terrain formations are used for upward progress; anchoring to terrain using technical devices to facilitate upward progress against gravity is not permitted. Only in snow, ice, and mixed climbing are ice axes and crampons acceptable. Otherwise, other technical devices placed in the terrain can be used only for protection against falls. Naturally, hands and feet are used the most for climbing. Places in the rock which offer support for the hands are called handholds, while those for the feet are called footholds. And yet we climb with our entire bodies, and for this reason the knees, elbows, torso, and the back in particular can be implemented in climbing in certain situations. In exceptionally desperate situations even the head, chin, and rear end can be applied as well, but if this is done often, it is presenting symptoms that something is not right; that we are scraping the bottom of the barrel, so to speak. Over the long term we can achieve nothing with this except an unfortunate demise.

Handholds are formations in the rock which provide an underpinning for the hands. They can take the form of protrusions, depressions, or cracks.

Cling grip – The most common method of gripping while raising the hand. Horizontal formations are suitably held with this method, whether they be any manner of juts, ledges, or horizontal cracks and seams.
Undercling – pulling the hand against in the opposite direction of leg pressure. It enables the climber to pull the torso toward the rock and to reach higher with the other hand. We often apply the undercling to horizontal cracks or to the bottom end of a jutting rock protrusion.
Sidepull – arrests a lean of the body in the opposite direction. This hold can be used during a traverse (progress in a horizontal direction), when climbing using the lieback technique, or when needing to stabilize a position on the rock during a climb.

Continued in the book >>

iPhone, iPad, Mac
Android, web browser
Kindle Fire
Kindle e-ink